The Joslin Garden—Fulfilling the Bee’s Needs—2-04-21

Nature and environmental awareness is the cornerstone of the Joslin Garden. 

Wildlife logs.

Wildlife logs.

William and Mary Coker Joslin always believed that parks and greenways are a large part of what makes Raleigh a vibrant and healthy place to live. By donating their home and garden to the City of Oaks Foundation, Joslin’s garden plan is to give all visitors and citizens of Raleigh another natural haven from urban life. They hope that the Joslin Garden will provide a place where environmental awareness and conservation can be nurtured through education and the joy of a deep connection with the natural world. The City of Oaks Foundation. 

The City of Oaks Foundation always welcomes ideas to enhance our endeavors, and our posts are about raising awareness, be it learning about plants or Nature and the environment.

We were recently asked if we considered having European honey bees, Apis mellifera, hives to help with pollination…and to help save the honey bees.

The City of Oaks Foundation likes the idea of having hives, one day may brand our own honey, but in the meantime we are already helping bees. You are too when you think of it. Are you pesticide-free and have a diversity of plants? That is a good place to start.

William Joslin’s children relate that during the late 1970s-mid ’80s, he kept bees at the Joslin Garden. He successfully harvested honey and maintained his hives with the support and mentorship of his friend Carl Holleman, a fellow environmentalist and attorney who kept bees for many years at his home in Apex. Mr. Joslin’s beekeeping enterprise was during the time before there was widespread public concern about the future of the European honey bee.

In the ’90s and early 2000s, we heard a lot about Colony Collapse Disorder (CCD). During these times, higher rates of winter hive losses were seen, and people feared the European honey bee might go extinct. Rest assured, there was no threat of extinction, then or now. Even without keeping hives, you can do so much at home to benefit wildlife. 

The best part of this extinction-scare was that it raised awareness of our use and misuse of pesticides used by the average person. Those of us who have spent a lifetime understanding Nature and the environment, like the Joslins, knew the connection between bees and other pollinators for pollen and nectar. The best indication of a healthy garden and Nature preserve is noting the butterflies, resident and migratory birds, and of course the European honey bees, and especially our native bees.

Scientists have estimated that globally, one in six native bee species is regionally extinct and more than 40 percent are vulnerable to extinction.

In the United States, there are about 4,000 native bee species. About 70% of bee species nest in the ground or cavities. We are not talking about the horrid, predatory wasp, Vespula spp. that colonizers underground and can attack if disturbed. We wouldn’t wish that on anyone. Where native bees are concerned, the vast majority are solitary and have no hive to protect, thus harmless.

Unfortunately, at least 23 percent of U.S. native bees have declined, with bees in areas with heavy commodity-crop production particularly hard hit due to habitat loss and pesticide use. Other threats to native bees include climate-driven sea-level rise and increased temperatures, loss of host plants, and competition and disease from non-native honeybees.

As an environmentalist and nature-lover, I make it a point to stay on top of wildlife losses and environmental improvements. There was a time when CCD had higher winter losses than the typical loss (pre-CCD) of 30%. Things have improved incredibly since then. 

Several years ago, I thought I was helping the European honey bee by trying my hand at beekeeping. With my pesticide-free ½ acre, planted specifically for birds, bees, and butterflies, I thought my beekeeping could help prevent the honey bee from going extinct. Well, actually, I never believed extinction was possible, though that fear did settle in for many. In any event, I was wrong in thinking I was helping by (trying to) keep bees; in fact, I may well have contributed to the problem.

I praise beekeepers who raise bees and harvest honey. Local honey is my go-to purchase. Oh, it is all so good! I like Greek yogurt with a dab of honey with my blueberries in the morning or afternoon snack!

To meet the demand for startup beekeepers with no mentor or training, garden centers started carrying hive supplies. That lasted a couple of years. Homeowners soon abandoned their hives after the bees left. Just like I did. What I didn’t really understand at the time was I might have contributed to even more honey bee losses, given my bees may have spread disease picked up in the hives I kept. This is distressing to think about.

On the positive side, besides the European honey bee not being in peril as many once thought, the real concerns are with agriculture, not home gardeners. I realized I have everything I need to help both European honey bees and our native bees. The same is true for the Joslin Garden, and since you admire the #JoslinGarden, as evidenced by the fact you are reading this, you probably do too!

HERE’S HOW WE HHER’S HOW TO HELP NATIVE BEES

Stop Using Pesticides. This makes sense, right? Not everyone knows that pesticides. They are all bad for the environment.

Go Native. In The Joslin Garden, we have both native and introduced plants like camellias. We have slowly begun to eradicate as many non-native invasive plants as we can. It will take time, but we know if we can keep at it, we will succeed. Look for future posts on our approach.

Diversity Is Key. Not all flower sizes fit all. With so many native bees requiring different needs, diversity is key. Bees have different tongue sizes. Short tongues need flowers with pollen and nectar that suits their reach. Longer tongues can get deep into the throat of the flower. And then there is the trusty carpenter bee that nectar-robs trumpet-shaped flowers by biting through the top where all the goodies are. 

Joslin Snag.jpg

Leave Snags. To learn more, click HERE! Having snags on your land is a great way to support local wildlife, especially native bees and cavity-nesting birds.

Having fun with your snag.jpg

Leave Cutbacks. When doing spring cutback, leave about six to eight inches to stem height. A good example of this is Bee Balm, Monarda spp. Bee Balm has hollow stems, the perfect size for our friendly native Mason bee, Osmia spp.

Open Ground. Leave areas of unmulched ground,

Shop smart. Smaller nurseries that specialize in organic gardening will likely be your best bet. And remember, supply equals demand: The more you ask for pollinator-safe plants, the more likely stores will start stocking them.

Water. If you already have a birdbath, you’re good to go. Provide some pebbles or rocks as “islands” in the dish so pollinators—especially small bees—won’t drown. We at the Joslin Garden are fortunate to have a stream running through the property and we have a manmade frog pond! Of course, standing water can also attract an unwanted backyard pest: the mosquito. Make sure you empty and refill dishes frequently to keep the water fresh. To learn more about natural mosquito control, click HERE!

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Henbit, Lamium amplexicaule

There are some plants when have to ask, Are you a weed or wondrous?

henbit..jpg

Henbit, Lamium amplexicaule, is considered a weed by many, but not by me! And before you think I just let weeds grow in my garden, or even the Joslin Garden, think again!  

Although they are considered weeds, you may be interested to learn henbit is a food source by pollinators in early spring. The flowers of henbit provide a pollen and nectar source for long-tongued bees, such as honey bees and bumblebees in March and April.

If given a choice, my girls will choose chickweed over henbit, but once the chickweed source is up, my chickens will then devour the henbit!

Did you know henbit is edible to humans as well? 

Hummingbirds enjoy the nectar of this wild edible, as well as being an important early-season nectar and pollen sources for honeybees.

While henbit has a shallow taproot, it easy to get up with a soil knife. 

The low growing, upright to sprawling plants has a number of weak stems arising from the base that may be erect or almost lay on the ground. The stems are square and green but often become purple with age and may root at the lower nodes. This edible weed reproduces solely by seed, and each henbit plant can produce 2,000 or more seeds. It also spreads by producing roots on lower stems that touch the ground.

There are some plants when have to ask, Are you a weed or wondrous?

Henbit, Lamium amplexicaule, is considered a weed by many, but not by me! And before you think I just let weeds grow in my garden, or even the Joslin Garden, think again!  

Although they are considered weeds, you may be interested to learn henbit is a food source by pollinators in early spring. The flowers of henbit provide a pollen and nectar source for long-tongued bees, such as honey bees and bumblebees in March and April.  If still in bloom when the hummingbirds migrate back


Wondering if hen in the name could mean chickens eat it? They sure do, however, if given a choice, my girls will choose chickweed over henbit, but once the chickweed source is up, my chickens will then devour the henbit!

Did you know henbit is edible to humans as well? Henbit can be consumed fresh or cooked as an edible herb, and it can be used in teas. 

The stem, flowers, and leaves are edible. It is very nutritious, high in iron, vitamins, and fiber. You can add it raw to salads, soups, wraps, or green smoothies.

While henbit has a shallow taproot, it easy to get up with a soil knife. 

Habitat

Henbit grows by roadsides, in cropland, pastures, in waste areas, in gardens, and on lawns. It prefers light, dry soil, and cultivated soil, and it originated in Eurasia and Northern Africa. It also grows in Australia, South America, western Asia, Greenland, and throughout Canada and the United States.

The Joslin Garden--1-28-2021--Three Ferns: The Good, The Bad, & The um, Ugly

Joslin Garden Snow day

Does the sight of a shady garden, filled with ferns, bring a smile to your eyes? It does mine!

I Love them all, or at least I think I do since I don’t know if I’ve come across all of the approximately 380 species of ferns in North America. Most of them can be found on the national forests and grasslands. We, gardeners, have our favorites. Today, we are highlight three growing in The Joslin Garden: The Good, The Bad, and um, The Ugly!

Remember. when looking at the pictures, our fern stands are mature. It will either take time for you to achieve the same lush level. If you want more sooner than later, you’ll have to raid the cookie jar! I have some serious fern envy from The Joslin Garden.

THE GOOD FERN: Ostrich Fern, Matteuccia struthiopteris

chuttersnap-ot-A6eBTJG4-unsplash.jpg Ostrich fern

Matteuccia is a genus of ferns with one species: Matteuccia struthiopteris. The species epithet struthiopteris comes from Ancient Greek words στρουθίων "ostrich" fern. The one and only, and how good it is!

Up north, ostrich ferns can be invasive; that’s not so much of a problem here.

Did you know ferns are deer resistant? ~Helen Yoest

The wetter climate we’ve experienced in the last couple of years has gardeners ready to fill moist, shady areas with lush ferns. Tolerating both wet and drier situations, once established, as well as some sun to full shade, ostrich ferns colonize an area by spreading rhizomes. By lifting these rhizomes, and separating them into pieces, they can be transplanted elsewhere.

Dying back in winter, with a unique crown above ground, the fronds appear vigorously in the early spring, popping out of the ground almost overnight. The clumps also increase in size every year for a lush dramatic ground cover.

Winter look of ostrich ferns.

Winter look of ostrich ferns.

Did you know ostrich fern fiddleheads are edible? To harvest the fiddleheads, which are simply the curled or coiled young fronds emerging in the spring. Ostrich fiddleheads are considered a delicacy. Collect them when they are just emerging from the ground, up to about an inch above the soil line.

If a brown papery case surrounds the coiled fiddlehead, remove it by rubbing it off before cooking. Wash the fiddleheads several times in cold water to remove any dirt or grit, These fiddleheads can be store for a few days, tightly wrapped in the refrigerator before preparing. But the sooner cooked after harvest, the better.

Tasting like nutty asparagus, the fronds mesh well with stir-frying, hollandaise sauce, and tomatoes, A great source of vitamins A and C, fiddleheads should not be served raw as they can cause stomach upset. I like mine saluted in a little pad of butter.

Please be specific when eating fiddleheads. The ostrich fern is considered the safest to eat. People frequently forage for fiddleheads of other species like the lady fern or the shield fern, and consider them to be safe as long as they're cooked. Bracken fern fiddleheads are an especially controversial variety; many believe the ferns are fine in small quantities, but they're known to contain a carcinogen. I only consume ostrich fern fiddleheads and cooked.

THE BAD FERN, Bracken Fern, Pteridium spp.

Well, I should start by saying bracken ferns are GREAT in the garden. In fact, bracken ferns are gorgeous!!! Nothing bad here! But…

Bracken ferns

Bracken ferns

There was a time when the bracken fern had been used by man as a delicacy and for animal forage.  

Bracken ferns are noted for their large, highly divided leaves. They are found on all continents except Antarctica and in all environments except deserts. Their typical habitat is in uncultivated hill land. Great for use in erosion control. The genus probably has the widest distribution of any fern in the world

It is, however, a toxic plant that’s associated with tumor formation, bone marrow depression, blindness, and other serious conditions. Some believe bracken ferns can be eaten in moderation, but I’m NOT a believer and would not recommend this!

And…

THE um, UGLY FERN: Christmas Fern, Polystichum acrostichoides

Native Christmas fern.png

Christmas fern, Polystichum acrostichoides, is very easy to establish and grow where conditions are right. It requires cool, moist, well-drained soil in shade. In the right spot, it can be a good, evergreen border or accent plant. Though often used as a groundcover, it is a clumping fern, not forming a continuous, undifferentiated carpet the way some ferns do. But with enough of them, it can appear like a solid mass.

Within the winter #JoslinGarden, the native Christmas fern is a bright evergreen spot. Maybe not the showest fern in the summer, but finding a patch of green amongst our leaf litter #leavetheleaves at the #JoslinGarden during a cold winter day is heartwarming.

So why do I say ugly? Christmas ferns are so underused, I have to assume people don’t like their looks in the winter as they flatten to the ground. They are upright in the spring, summer, and fall.. I prefer the look of a Christmas fern in the dark days of winter. In the summer, their green seems to just blend in with all the surrounding green and can be missed. Now is the time to truly find the beauty in Christmas ferns!

Christmas ferns got its name because it stays green right through the holiday season. It is a robust, leathery fern with glossy, green fronds year-round.

Our native Christmas fern is very easy to establish and grow where conditions are right. It requires cool, moist, well-drained soil in shade. In the right spot, it can be a good, evergreen border or accent plant.The silvery fiddleheads emerge in early spring.

Did you know, #JoslinGarden is open for a covid-friendly stroll M-F from 9 to 5 when staff is here. We are closed Saturday and Sunday, but M-F we encourage you to visit and see how many Christmas ferns you can find! ~Helen Yoest

The City of Oaks Foundation is very fortunate to have volunteer groups come in to help in the garden. It is a most cherished labor gift to the #JoslinGarden. This past Saturday, we were honored with seven volunteers from The Gardeners of Wake County. I know these folks; I was a member for years, but I just got to busy to attend; I’v spoken to the group many times. The programs are wonderful, and the meetings are great fun. We had seven volunteers for four hours. Imagine, that is 28 hours of hard labor, helping to beautify the garden. Thank you so much!!!

Helen Yoest

Horticulture Specialist




The Joslin Garden--January 21, 2021-Roses are Thorny, Creeping Charlie smells as does Stinking Hellebores, but at the heart of it all was a Pearl Fryers topiary

THE JOSLIN GARDEN 

The City of Oaks Foundation and 

City of Raleigh Parks



It’s a good feeling working in a garden by taking one step at a time. As our journey begins, The Joslin Garden needs some love. It’s best not to look at the garden as a whole. It can feel overwhelmed knowing what needs to be done. Yet, we have help; thankfully, we can make progress week by week, month by month. This will be important as the Foundation hopes to open for a private garden tour in April. I only have myself to blame; I think we can get the garden ready by then! At the very least, The Formal Garden and Lawn will be ready to show off!

ROSES

None of the roses in this bed are marked, but the database lists ‘Nastarana’, ‘Yellow Ribbons,’ and Rosa banksiae in this area. Come May, with the first flush of blooms, I hope to identify and label each of these.

It was time to cut back the roses. These roses have been here for many, many years. It is obvious by the base of the plant.

Rose Garden before cutbacks

Rose Garden before cutbacks

Rose cutbacks.jpg


I left a big pile of cuttings at the edge of the driveway. My bad. During my day there and with volunteers coming Saturday, we don’t have enough vessels to package up yard waste for curbside pick up. Nell order 20 paper yard waste bags to use for this batch. We needed to be ready. Hopefully, one of the volunteers, who likes working with thorny rose cutbacks can package them up. In any event, I will ask our Garden Angle, Neal Wisenbaker with Parks if he can drive by with a dump truck sometime when he is in the area. We will be exceeding the number we can dump at any given time since Yard Waste only now comes every other week.

While I was working in the rose garden, I see there is mint, cleome, rosemary, salvias, others not yet identified. I can’t wait to see what awaits!!!

CREEPING CHARLIE
I tend to be a VERY optimistic gardener. But there is something about Charlie that worries me. He’s worrying me.. Creeping Charlie, Glechoma hederacea, is EVERYWHERE. Really! I started with my first patch removal.

Creeping Charlie

Creeping Charlie

Every gardener has their favorite garden tools. My tool of choice, besides my Felco clippers, is a soil knife. It can dig deep but also, used horizontally, it can cut shallow roots with its serrated edge. We may have a lot of Creeping Charlie, but it doesn’t really take long to go after it.

Clearing out creeping charlie.jpg

NANDINA

I’m with Nell on this one, we wanted the nandina G. O. N. E. gone! I learned a neat trick from Nell. I have a history of removing nandina, and they have roots to China and dense! In my experience, they are one of the most difficult shrubs to rid if you want to root too. What Nell does, is first cut and bag the berries. We know how they love to procreate!

Nandina.jpg

Then cut the shrub down to the ground. Nell then puts a couple of layers of cardboard over the top of the root. and then cover with a thick layer of mulch. Nell says it does the trick every time.

Mulched over nandina root.jpg

Looks great, don’t you think?

STINKING HELLEBORES

Nell cut back stinking Hellebores, Helleborus foetidus, down by the street.. You gotta love common names, right?

Did you know this hellebore gets a common name from an unpleasant odor when the leaves are crushed?

Helleborus foetidus also has another common name. Due to the nature of the plant’s weeping structure of its deeply cut leaves, a Bear’s Foot comes to mind.

VOLUNTEERS

Volunteers are coming on Saturday— Chris shot a few how-to videos to show the volunteers where to work, including cutting back ginger lilies, ostrich and bracken ferns, picking up sticks, and of course, digging up Creeping Charlie and smilax.

More of that next Thursday!

PRUNING PEARL FRYER TOPIARY
No pressure here No, Not At. ALL. haha. I’m a huge fan of Pearl Fryer. Pearl and he has reached the top of my horticulture heroes list. In 2008 I visited his garden. And now all these years later, it has come full circle.

Pruned Pearl Fryer heart was given to Mary Coker Joslin, also from South Carolina

Pearl Fryer's Garden before.jpg
Pearl Fryer after.jpg

In looking at the after picture now, I think I need to take out more growth. That will go on my next week’s to-do list!

Remember the edge I cut last week? Nell added branches to edge the bed. I love having these natural edgings. It’s not for every garden, but there is a sense of place in The Joslin Garden.

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Smilax root.jpg

One of the many things I like about focused women, is determination. I’m that way. Watch out when I need to get something finished. Well, it appears Nell is the same way. Imagine what it took for her to rid the root of this smilax?

Greenbriar Smilax.jpg

Here is the culprit climbing up a camellia bush. Look for the vertical line at 11:45.

Until soon,

Helen

A Visit to Pearl Fryer's Topiary Garden

In April 2008, I first wrote about Pearl Fryer’s Topiary Garden, but under a different platform. I thought it best to repost under Bee Better Naturally since I happen to be working on a heart piece given to Mary Coker Joslin in the Joslin Garden.


Pearl Fryer's Garden.png

April last year, I stopped to visit Pearl Fryer’s topiary garden.  I have been an admirer for a very long time.  As a volunteer regional representative for the Garden Conservancy’s Open Days tour, it did me proud when

It was a cold misty day when I visited April 2008.  I plan to go again. One night, a while back, the kids and I watched the documentary on Pearl called, A Man Named Pearl.  They, as was I, was wowed by the man and the garden.  They want to see this garden.  It’s in a neighborhood where one might otherwise feel like an intruder – sweet, quiet, quaint.  But it’s OK, Pearl and the neighbors are used to the traffic.  Even when I visited, on a cold and misty day with no one in sight, the garden was welcoming.

Here’s an expert from my journal…

By the sweet smell of wood smoke coming from his chimney, I assumed Pearl Fryer was home–-inside warm, dry, and cozy–-outside 50, drizzling, and gray. Yet the sculpted gardens were bright and cheerful. I finally had the chance to visit the amazing topiary gardens of Pearl’s dreams. I’m glad I did. Located in Bishopville, SC, this garden is now being preserved by the Garden Conservancy

Greenbriar, Smilax rotundifolia

If ever there was a native plant gardeners love to hate, it’s greenbriar, Smilax rotundifolia!

Greenbriar.jpg

Most of the eastern US has been invaded by greenbriar, Smilax rotundifolia. I say invaded because as a native, it is not technically invasive, but rather aggressive; and AGGRESSIVE it is!  But when it comes to greenbriar, it is an invasion. Reaching over a 20-feet climb!

Did you know the difference between invasive and aggressive is that invasive refers to non-native plants and aggressive refers to native plants that love your space too much! ~Helen Yoest

Greenbriar’s native range is the Southeastern US that extends as far north as southern Nova Scotia and southern Ontario, and continues west to southern Michigan, Indiana, and southern Illinois; south through southeastern Missouri to eastern Texas; and east to northern Florida. It’s overtaking the EAST! Native or not, and edible or not, as we shall see, it has no place in a cultivated garden. 

Smilax spreads both by seed and vegetatively. 

Flowers are green and present from April until August, and yes, smilax has incredible wildlife benefits (see below.) But if you close your eyes for long enough, it will spread beyond belief. The birds spread the seed, and the root tuber just grows and grows and grows, forming dense underground thickets.

Blue-black berries appear in September and may stay through the winter. Seeds are red. And be sure to wear gloves when dealing with greenbriar. It is a thorny vine! Once called “The devil’s wrapping yarn” because of its thorns and tendrils.

The preference is partial sun, moist to dry-mesic conditions, and a slightly acidic soil containing loam, clay-loam, rocky material, or sand. Pretty much everywhere. I even have it at the Cottage on Emerald Isle, NC where there it is ALL sand. The seeds can remain dormant in the ground for several years; germination in the soil is enhanced by greater exposure to light.


Wildlife Benefits:

This is the painful part of riding this plant.

Likely pollinator floral visitors of Smilax rotundifolia include a variety of bees and flies, including, Halictid bees, Andrenid bees, cuckoo bees, Syrphid flies, and other flies. 

The flowers offer nectar as a floral reward to such visitors; the male flowers also offer pollen.

Songbirds feed on the berries of smilax. These bird species include the Ruffed Grouse, Red-Bellied Woodpecker, American Crow, Catbird, Brown Thrasher, Eastern Bluebird, and White-Throated Sparrow

Also, Greenbriar is also the host plant for various moth species including Spotted Phosphila Moth, Curve-lined Owlet Moth, Proleucoptera smilaciella, and Marmara smilacisella

Edible Benefits: 

Berries are delicious raw or cooked into a jam or jelly. Roots can be ground and dried and used like flour. Early Native Americans used the roots as a starch source. The roots can also be used like any root vegetable – boiled, stewed, or roasted.




Chickweed, Stellaria media

I have it; you have it, we all have it. Please don't say it's never in your garden. I wouldn't want you to fib.

chickweed.jpg

Stellaria media, also known as chickweed, is ubiquitous in cool weather gardens. When you aren't paying attention, chickweed germinates in autumn or late winter form large mats. It dies out once the temperatures warm up, but it will be back!

Native to Eurasia and naturalized throughout; it may be the crop of the world! At least for chickens. But did you know it's edible for us too?

Chickweed is grown as a vegetable crop and ground cover for both human and poultry feed. The leaves, flowers, stems, as well as seeds are all edible. They can be eaten raw in a salad or lightly cooked. The peak of flavor is when the flowers are blooming, with a taste reminiscent of spinach and is more nutritious than lettuce!  

Chickweed is rich in vitamin A and contains great amounts of vitamin C, etheric oils, flavonoids, and the minerals potassium, silicic acid, zinc, phosphorus, as well as, magnesium and copper.

While many may call these weeds, many insects could not live without them in Georgia. These durable, tolerant, and prolific plants provide essential services to our native bees, butterflies, beetles, and many birds.

his plant produces 1/2 inch to one inch stems that usually sprawl across the ground. It branches abundantly near the base and sprawls out. To harvest, rid, or otherwise weed out, it's best to use a garden knife to dig out the root from the plant's center. 

Typical growing conditions are sun to light shade, moist, fertile loam, or even in clay. 

The flowers attract bees, butterflies, and birds! I harvest it for my girls. They gobble it up!

Wildlife Value:

Attracts bees, butterflies, and songbirds. Host plant for many butterfly and moth species, including the Chickweed Geometer Moth, Haematopis grataria

Helen Yoest

To purchase my books, click HERE!

The Joslin Garden—January 14, 2021—Making a Verdant Edge

THE JOSLIN GARDEN 

The City of Oaks Foundation and 

City of Raleigh Parks



January 14, 2021—Making a Verdant Edge—10A—Formal Garden and Lawn

Nell and I started our morning with a chill in the air and the prospect of sun and warmth in the early afternoon. The forecast came true.

On a slow walk through the chilly property, Nell and I discussed approaching the massive four-acre nature preserve. We were like old friends walking down memory lane, as can happen when two nature-lovers walk the woods, even though today is only our second day together in the garden. The discussion, in part, was how to approach the garden’s care. What did we decide? We will start in one named area, and then move to the next.

We are currently working in the Formal Garden & Lawn

We are currently working in the Formal Garden & Lawn

Although not our focus this morning, as we walked along the garden paths, we naturally started pulling greenbriar, Smilax rotundifolia. We were both giddy when we pulled the offensive "weed" from the ground with the bulb still attached. Success! Alas, smilax will be here forever, though. 

Did you know all parts of our native greenbrier are edible and tasty as well! The new shoots can be sautèd like asparagus. Native Americans used the roots as a starch source. ~Helen Yoest

Maybe we shouldn't be too quick to judge; smilax is a native, after all. STILL! Need I say more? I digress, though; today's update is about dwarf mondo grass, Ophiopogon japonicus, and its traits, and another green edging.

The prevalence of dwarf mondo grass, Ophiopogon japonicus 'Nana', and the straight species O. japonicus indicate that it must have been a favorite of Mary and Bill Joslin. Along the path edges at the beginning 10A--The Formal Garden and Lawn, mondo thrives. In one large patch, infringing within the bed proper, we lifted a good chunk of it and transplanted it to the other side of the path for continuity, and when I say "we" I mean Nell did it all!

Wide patch of dwarf mondo from where Nell pulled to transplant. We will continue on this transformation next week.

Wide patch of dwarf mondo from where Nell pulled to transplant. We will continue on this transformation next week.

Area where Nell began the transplants.

Area where Nell began the transplants.

With a little encouragement, The Formal Lawn could be replaced with 'Nana'. Or at least it seems it's trying to tell us so. Or perhaps it stopped spreading as the sun becomes too much for dwarf mondo to bare. I'll learn more about the sun conditions as the seasons’ march on.

Dwarf mondo grass ‘Nana’ is growing through and to the right of the tree shadow. Imagine if the entire lawn was ‘Nana’!

Dwarf mondo grass ‘Nana’ is growing through and to the right of the tree shadow. Imagine if the entire lawn was ‘Nana’!

Did you know dwarf mondo 'Nana' was a sport of the straight species, and in this case, is a more desirable trait? Or at least we think so. 'Nana' has to be monitored, though; it will revert to the straight species.

An example of O.jaonicus' Nana' that has reverted back to the species. If not removed, 'Nana' would soon be lost as it will be taken over the straight species. And while I like both, 'Nana', in my mind, has more value, especially since the price for a flat is so dear. The straight species, not so much

Reverted center clump removed.

Reverted center clump removed.

Dwarf mondo sounds like an oxymoron to me. I would imagine if George Carlin were a plantsman, and he well may have been, he would have been all over this dichotomy—dwarf—MONDO! Ha!

We took our verdant focus to other areas of the garden. While we want all the paths cleared for a delineation between paths and beds, path edging is our guidepost, but a good blowing will make a world of difference. And now that leaf season is about over; the timing is perfect. 

(Note to self: Get with Neal about this.)

With verdant green on my mind, and edging too, there were a few areas I wanted to tackle while Nell was working on transplanting the 'Nana'. Within the Formal Garden and Lawn, Liriope muscari edges the beds. There are lots of names for this mostly evergreen edging plant. You may know it as monkey grass, lily tuff, or even liriope! It's nice when an actual genus name is used instead of a common name. 

Groomed Liriope edge next to the to the Former Lawn.

Groomed Liriope edge next to the to the Former Lawn.

I raked to move leaves off the lawn and within the liriope into the beds for a natural mulch.

Did you know there is life in those leaves? There is a bonified campaign to #LeaveTheLeaves.  As the founding member of such a campaign, please note that it doesn't necessarily mean leaving them in place. In the Joslin Garden, we moved them into the beds for a natural and free mulch. We also don’t recommend chopping up the leaves with a mower. In doing so, the critters and food in the leaf litter are chopped up too. :(


During our walk, I found the moss lawn. I have a special place in my heart for moss and learned Nell does too. I was very fortunate to write for a moss grower and designer for over five years. It was an honor. I’m sorry to say, the moss guy has since passed away.

Leaf litter covering the moss lawn.

Leaf litter covering the moss lawn.

Moss lawn clearedjpg.jpg

Nell and I are both keenly aware garden care will be a goal for generations to come; she and I are now the current caregivers or stewards of this beautiful parcel of land with support from the City of Raleigh Parks. We are working with Neal Wisenbaker providing support from his District's team on an as-needed basis. Today, Neal dropped up some tools for us to use. The deed was most appreciative!

Helen Yoest

Horticulture Specialist

…and life long sustainable gardener


Southern Living magazine named Helen Yoest the pollinating expert of the Southeast

Southern Living magazine named Helen Yoest the pollinating expert of the Southeast


Helen Yoest is also the author of several books.



Growing a Food Forest System

Most of us are familiar with forests as an ecosystem, hosting a diversity of plants, fungi, and insects. Deep in the forest, we see layers and niches. Think Tarzan swinging on three-inch diameter vines!

Imagine your forest system producing food, with the majority of elements in that system being productive.

By understanding how nature designs forest systems, they are self-maintaining and self-replicating, we can model that system with productive species to produce a food most sustainably. There would be a minimum amount of input and a maximum amount of output.


LAYERS WITHIN A FOREST

All forests have layers—canopy, over-story, under-story, shrub, herbaceous, root yield, and ground covers and climbers. Our food forest system can have each of these and give us food.

In traditional permaculture, a food forest system, one would grow a canopy cover, particularly a legume, to fix nitrogen in the soil and build under from there. As the canopy served its life, the biomass that remains is left to decay or be broken up into the soil naturally. 

In the Bee Better Teaching Garden, we skipped the canopy layer, so we didn’t need to wait for something to die as our food forest system matured. Instead, we built the soil by adding four-inches of composted leaves each year. Mind you, I’ve been doing this since 1998, and I would encourage you to begin doing so do so as well if you aren’t already adding an annual mulch. The productivity of our soil is constant, and fertility is constantly increasing. 

Our garden planting focus is based on six layers— understory, shrubs, herbaceous/annuals, root yield, ground laver, and climbers, with edibles grown in each of these layers:

UNDERSTORY

Asian pear.jpg

Asian Pear

The understory in the Bee Better Teaching Garden is made up mostly of fruit trees, including:

Apple, Malus domestica ‘Honeycrisp’ 

Kousa dogwood, Cornus kousa 

Peach, Prunus persica ‘Redhaven’

Pear Asian, Pyrus pyrifolia

Pear, Bartlette pear, Pyrus communis x P. pyrifolia ‘Kiefer’

Persimmon,  Diospyros kaki  ‘Fuyu’ 

Plum, Prunus salicina ‘Santa Rosa’ 

Paw Paws, Asimina triloba

Sassafras, Sassafras albidum

Quince, Cydonia oblonga ‘Pineapple’

SHRUB

Beautyberry, Callicarpa americana

Camellia tea plant, Camellia sinensis var. sinensis

Goji, Lycium barbarum 

Goumi, Elaeagnus multiflora

Bay leaves, Laurus nobilis

HERBACEOUS/ANNUALS 

The herbaceous plants change out during the seasons, with kale and lettuce in late winter/early spring and basil and tomatoes in the summer heat. I also self sow sesame and buckwheat and have done other edibles as well. 

ROOT YEILD

The produce in the root yield also changes out during the seasons. Onions, carrots, garlic, and even peonies! But, no, I grow peonies for the flowers, although the petals can be used for a nice tea, yes, the roots are edible!

Harvested garlic.jpg

Harvested garlic from the Food Forest

GROUND LAYER

Peanuts, Arachis hypogaea, which are technically a root yield, as well, plus rosemary, Salvia rosmarinus and strawberries, Fragaria × ananassa ‘Ozark Beauty’ 

CLIMBER

Malabar spinach, Basella alba

Muscadine grape, Vitis rotundifolia

Elsewhere on our 1/2 acre, we have: 

Apricot, Prunus armeniaca ‘Garden Annie’

'Transcendent' Apple Harvest.jpeg

Apple, Malus pumila ‘North Sentinel’

Banana, Musa spp.—use leaves for steaming food

Blackberries, Rubus fruticosus ‘Apache’ andArapaho’

Blueberries, Vaccinium ashei ‘Premier’, ‘Climax’, & ‘Powder Blue’ 

Cherry, Prunus avium ‘Stella’ 

Chives, Allium schoenoprasum

Chokeberry, Aronia melanocarpa 

Chokecherry, Prunus virginiana

Figs, Ficus carica, ‘LSU Purple’, ‘Brown Turkey’, and ‘Celeste’

Guava, Psidium cattleianum ‘Strawberry’

Plum ‘Corinthian’, Prunus persica hybrid Corinthian’

Kiwi ‘Issai’, Actinidia arguta ‘Issai’

Loquat, Eriobotrya japonica—Every year, there are interesting flowers loved by bees, but no fruit. We can grow kumquat in our area, with evergreen leaves and fall to winter flowers. However, fruiting will not occur if temperatures drop to 25ºF or below. 

Passion vines, Passiflora incarnata and the tropical P. edulis

Raspberries ‘Southland’, Rubus idaeus ‘Southland’

Serviceberry, Amelanchier × grandiflora ‘Autumn Brilliance’




The Joslin Garden--January 7, 2021—Taming the Vine

THE JOSLIN GARDEN

City of Oaks Foundation and 

City of Raleigh Parks



January 7, 2021—Taming of the Vine—10A—Formal Garden and Lawn

On this chilly morning, Nell and I started at the house entrance where the vine grows.

Before my time in the garden, birds often perched along split-rail fence lining the upper driveway to the entrance of the former Joslin home; now known as The Joslin Garden. 

Bed 10A Before our first maintenance

Bed 10A Before our first maintenance

Tangled native Carolina jessamine, Gelsemium sempervirens, with a few yellow buds just beginning to form, benefited from a refresher. Visible from both the driveway and the garden path below, our focus today was to tame the vine, having it travel along the top of the fence line.  

Indeed birds still perch along the fence line, and will no doubt continue to leave their calling card for many years with more Eastern redbud, Cercis canadensis, seedlings growing freely along the fence line. We also found wintercreeper, Euonymus fortunei. A gardener before me must have kept a keen eye on this invasive. There wasn't much to pull, and what was there was, was easy to retrieve. 

We promise there are plenty of native berry-producing plants to feed you, dear birds. We look forward to seeing what other gifts you might bring us. Helen Yoest

Also, within the fence line was a volunteer nandina, Nandina domestica. Birds aren't fond of these berries, yet nandina spread. Indeed, they are toxic to birds, thus birds avoid consuming them. I've often thought a bird holds a berry in its beak, only to get a taste before eating and dropping it to the ground. Yuck! I need to understand more about birds and nandina berries. Since this is not a berry bush I grow to feed the birds or even for its ornamental value.

The Carolina jasmine stretched to twine around the young branches of the columnar peach trees, Prunus Persia' Corinthian Pink'.

Did you know the direction of vine twines is species-dependent? The Carolina jasmine twines left to right and tightly. Once it has a foothold on tree branches, removal is difficult. Some remnants remain. Once the cut vines dry, their tight hold relaxes, removing the rest of the vine is accomplished without harm to the tree. 

In the Formal Garden and Lawn, we cut back garden phlox, Phlox paniculata and bronze fennel, Foeniculum vulgare leaving about seven to eight-inch standing. These hollow stems are good nesting sites for native bees if they choose.

After our first round of cutbacks to weed and ready bed for spring.

After our first round of cutbacks to weed and ready bed for spring.

At the entrance lamp post, another. Euonymus spp. grows. Poorly groomed over the decades, we studied the form. It appears it was planted with intent and then spread in an undesirable shape. Nell and I agreed to pull out the offending forms, and Nell took the lead on this pruning. She did a fine job, don't you think! I was remiss in getting a before picture, but I hope you find the after-pruning image agreeable.

Nell pruned Euonymus spp.

The gardenia, Gardenia spp. at the entrance of the back porch had suckered over time and was infringing the pathway. Knowing this was a much-loved shrub, I was careful in my suggestion to remove the suckers.

JG 10A Gardenia before.jpg

There were quite a few suckers. The results pleased both Nell and me. The left side of the remaining shrub will fill-in to have a nice rounded form. I know doing these kinds of cuts takes a leap of faith or a lot of experience. 

Gardenia after pruning out suckers

Gardenia after pruning out suckers

JG 10A Lantana.jpg

At first, I proposed to cut back the lantana, Lantana camera, cultivar unknown, but then thought better. I decided to leave it standing. The multi-branches provide excellent cover for birds escaping predators. Plus, in truth, this stand of lantana, with the ground leaves providing food for the birds, and other wildlife, is a natural combination.

JG 10A Gill-over-the-ground.jpg

Bed Former Garden and Lawn also had Glechoma hederacea, an aromatic evergreen perennial ground cover that is hard the stop. It is coming up from the grass area. So you want to know the common name of this invasive weed from Europe? I say gill-over-the-ground, Nell says, Creeping Charlie. You might call it ground-ivy, run-away robin, field balm, or some other regional common name. That is why Latin names are so important. But here's a tip. I never learned this plant's Latin name because it is one plant I don't want to know officially, so gill-over-the-ground suffices.

It was a good day to be in the garden. I feel so fortunate to be the primary caregiver of this magnificent piece of nature right in the heart of Raleigh. And working with Nell Joslin only made the day sweeter as we accomplished our goal for the day and look forward to next week.

Until soon! Naturally

Helen Yoest

Horticulture Specialist

Five Area Women in Horticulture

We are so fortunate in the Triangle area to have the weather allowing us to garden year-round and area garden designers and enthusiasts who are infectious! For those who need design guidance, we are featuring here five area women in garden design, including Edith Eddleman, Suzanne Edney, Amy Strunk, and Jan Watson. I hope their thoughts will help motivate you to make 2021 the year of gardening!

EDITH EDDLEMAN 

JC Raulston Arboretum Perennial Border

JC Raulston Arboretum Perennial Border

Recently, I had the privilege of interviewing Edith Eddleman; and for those few of you in the design arena who have not heard the name, you certainly know her work. 

Quick-witted, with a keen eye for color, and a graceful, pleasant pace that makes one sit back and listen to the wisdom of her words. Edith’s talent? English-style perennial borders. I don’t doubt if Edith were a British Subject, she would have been honored the title Dame Edith Eddleman; although as humble as Edith is, this suggestion probably made her blush.

Author’s note:

The project has been stalled due to the arboretum’s closure to the public due to COVID-19. Personally, I can’t wait to see what they have been up to!

Edith and Doug are currently working on the history of the JC Raulston Arboretum, Gertrude Jekyll-style English perennial border, with Edith’s own twists to deal with area sunlight and heat. My interview with Edith was short so as not to give up too much of the history of this notable and magnificent perennial border, since a book is forthcoming. 

What sparked your calling into horticulture and design?

I was inspired by Ollie Adams, a then volunteer at Mordecai Historic Park in Raleigh to become a professional designer, sharing with me a design school I might be interested in. The school was in England, called the Clock House School of Garden Design, founded by John Brooks, located in Denmans, Fontwell, near Arundel, West Sussex, UK.

I spent a month learning from Mr. Brooks, then spent another month traveling around England studying English gardens.

As soon as came home I had my first client literally knocking on my door! Before I left for England, I planted 300 spring-blooming bulbs. My soon-to-be-client saw all the blooming bulbs and asked if I would design her garden!

Brief background of a notable project you spearheaded.

It would have to be the 18 by 300-foot English-style perennial border at the JC Raulston Arboretum. I began this volunteer project in 1981, and have worked on designing, planting, and maintaining, as time allowed, since that time. In 1985, Doug Ruhren join the project. Even though Doug is now the Gardens Manager at the JCRA, he still volunteers his time working on the perennial bed. 

Our efforts worked so well since Doug and I were able to be bold in our work because we are from a time where there were not a lot of rules.

It’s been a long time since there was a revision. The JCRA perennial has had a lot of revisions over the years, and it is now time for another. New changes will include wildlife benefits. With the awareness of the importance of pollinators, we are refining the border with more plants for pollinators; Doug is spearheading a lot of these 

What is your creative approach when evaluating a site for a new design? 

This may not sound very interesting, but I start with one perennial and build from there.

Is garden design an art form?

Yes! Like performance art, a place where different plant performers, like actors, take center stage, then step back for other plants to take the lead.



SUZANNE EDNEY

What sparked your calling into horticulture and design?

Owning my first house and property. I began decorating the yard. Will Hooker, a beloved landscape architect and professor of Landscape Design at North Carolina State University, happened to be my neighbor. He encouraged me to become a landscape designer.


A sketch on one of Suzanne's earlier projects

A sketch on one of Suzanne's earlier projects

Brief background of a notable project you spearheaded

The opportunity to relocate the Finley Nottingham Rose Garden arrived in 2006 at the JC Raulston Arboretum when it was expanded from eight to ten acres. To draw visitors into this newly acquired two acres at the southeast end of the arboretum, a site was chosen for the redesigning of this important and endowed rose display. It has become a prominent destination when visiting the JC Raulston Arboretum. 

Working from conception to a finished design is quite a thrilling experience.

What is your creative approach when evaluating a site for a new design? 

To look at a site from prominent entry and exit points. I always insist on going into a client’s house to see the views from all the windows. I take photographs and use those to balance the two-dimensional images. A trick I gleaned from reading Gertrude Jekyll.

Is garden design an art form? 

To me, it is the ultimate sculptural experience.

AMY STRUNK

What sparked your calling into horticulture and design?

I am extremely fortunate to have spent several years of my childhood overseas due to my father’s job. Living in the tropics had a big influence on me as we were surrounded by four seasons of lush beauty!

I remember the first winter when we had moved back to Virginia and I realized that orchids could not grow on trees year-round; what a disappointment! Rather than being sad about what couldn’t grow, I delved into what could grow and found my first job at a local garden center. Working there part-time in high school gave me the chance to learn the design and horticulture business from the ground up.

One of Amy’s Lifestyle Designs

One of Amy’s Lifestyle Designs

Brief background of a notable project you spearheaded.

I did the initial design for an outdoor island and built-in grill, water feature, and patio along with seasonal plantings focusing on native plants and pollinators. Over the years, it has been a joy to continue to work with the customer and watch the garden evolve, add new plants to fill in overtime, and even replace a few things that just didn’t thrive. Such is gardening!

What is your creative approach when evaluating a site for a new design? 

I start all of my projects with a site visit where we walk the property so I can get a feel for the space and learn more about the client. Most people give me a wish list of plants, materials or items they’d like in their space. My job is to listen to what they’re asking and translate that into a personalized space they love.

Is garden design an art form? 

I certainly believe so. Anytime you create something based on your own experience and are able to show it and share it is an art in my opinion. A well-designed garden engages all of your senses at once and that is an incredible feeling!

  

JAN WATSON

What sparked your calling into horticulture and design?

I’ve always loved being outside and I think that naturally led me to a career in horticulture and design.  It is an absolute privilege to be able to create beauty for a living.  

Please share a notable project you spearheaded.

Duke Gardens recently completed a renovation of the Mary Duke Biddle Rose Garden. One of the main goals of the redesign was to create a space with four seasons of interest.  Roses, perennials, and evergreens are surrounded by an abundance of ornamental grasses, providing filler and strong vertical accents.  

What is your creative approach when evaluating a site for a new design?

For me, the creative process starts with having some practical information about the site’s present and future. Once I know my parameters, I can make design decisions that are not only functional but also excite and inspire.  

Is garden design an art form? 

It is most definitely a form of art.  And, just like other art forms, it takes heart and a lot of practice to succeed.  



HELEN YOEST, Yes, that’s me!

What sparked your calling into horticulture and design?

 As a lifelong gardener and nature lover, I was remiss in even knowing there is a degree in horticulture science. To be fair, it was during that time when sort science wasn’t a stand-alone degree. Instead, I choose to follow my heart to the environment, in general and received degrees in both environmental science and engineering. 

Please share a notable project you spearheaded.

Just planted! It may not look like much now, but once the rest of plants arrive and it fills in, it will be a pollinator’s paradise.

Just planted! It may not look like much now, but once the rest of plants arrive and it fills in, it will be a pollinator’s paradise.

For the City of Raleigh, I had the good fortune to design and install Halifax Park’s two entrance beds. Given free-rein, with approval from the City’s Horticulturalist, I designed the beds in a Piet Oudolf-style. Mr. Oudolf’s designs are some of my favorites, and although he doesn’t specifically plant for wildlife naturally they come.

Piet Oudolf is an influential Dutch garden designer, plant nurseryman, and author. He is a leading figure in the New Perennial movement—his designs and plant compositions using bold drifts of herbaceous perennials and grasses which are chosen at least as much for their structure as for their flower color.

What is your creative approach when evaluating a site for a new design?

I start with the wildlife benefits of a plant. In conversations with clients, I learn of what their interest is in. If they want to attract area birds, I know I need more than just supplemental feeders. They also need trees, shrubs, and flowering plants to provide seeds, brood food, and berries.

Is garden design an art form?

Indeed it is, and it goes beyond pretty flowers or flower/foliage combinations. I find the sight of an American goldfinch, Sinus trusts, eating the seeds of a brown-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia triloba, just as beautiful. If not even more beautiful than the flower itself! Visitors to my garden is what gives me my greatest thrill

Winter is the perfect time to evaluate what you want from a garden, with time to read, lear, and even contact your favorite designer to build the garden of your dreams.

Until soon!



Naturally, Helen









































2023 January Garden Sustainable Stewardship Practices for the Southeast

January: The sun is low on most January days, but my hopes are high. When I walk the garden during the winter, I hope to find solace in Nature. As I look around, the trees, void of leaves, show me structure and strength. They make me feel stronger with every step I take.

January is also an excellent time to look back on your gardening year and to plan for the year ahead. Walk around your garden and take photos. Seeing your garden through the lens is telling, and looking at these pictures can help you see where you may want to make changes. Your mind can block out clutter to give a more settled view. Take a picture of your garden areas as they are now, and notice what clutter can be changed and accept or hide what can’t. Even better, photograph your garden each month as a photo journal of what is blooming and when.

.

TO READ MORE OF MY WRITINGS, CLICK HERE!

HAVE A GARDENING NEED? HIRE HELEN!

The Back 40 (ft) North to South—Picked up bagged leaves from streets to add here

The Back 40 (ft) South to North

Gazebo Corner—Picked up the chestnuts and raked leaves into beds.

The Epimedium Patch—Picked up the chestnuts and raked leaves into beds.

The Wildflower Patch Extension—I’m not hopeful the epimediums the rabbits ate to a nub will return.

The Wildflower Patch—This area is coming along.

The Southside

The Ostrich Fern Garden—It doesn’t look like much now, but wait til spring!

The Front Fountain Garden—The Japanese Glass Floats are stealing the show!

The Blackberry Patch with Chimney Swift Tower

The Food Forest Extension

The Front Beds

The Parterre—I’m happy with these beds as annuals. I don’t have to think!

Rock Garden

The Raspberry Patch

The Pollinator Garden—The transplants from the NC State Fair that make up this redo are doing fone.

The Blackberry Patch

The North Side—This is looking gorgeous!

The Girl’s Garden

The Wildlife Pond

Mixed Border, North to South

Mixed Border, South to North.

SNAKES: WONDERING WHAT SNAKE IS IN YOUR BACKYARD? CLICK HERE FOR AN EASY ID.

GLOSSARY

Until soon,

Helen

#WeCanAllBeeBetter!

2021 New Year's Day--Give Nature a Chance

On a warm, moist New Year’s Day, I’m gifted with many birds at the suet feeder, hanging from a soon-to-be-flowering Prunus mume ‘Bridal Veil’. The multi-branched, open structure of the tree allows each species to wait their turn with plenty of space in-between. It’s most surprising to me because I’m sitting on the daybed, under the back porch, to witness it all. Remaining still, I’m unable to capture an image. I’m in the moment; you’ll have to trust this is real. 

Suet on'Bridal Veil'.jpg

For one moment, the suet feeder is unoccupied, with three different birds wondering when to take their turn.

The brown thrasher, Toxostoma rufum, is first—she swoops in to grab her goodies. All the while, a male Eastern bluebird, Sialia sialis, is to the right of the feeder, with keen eyes waiting for his turn. How do they know who’s next? There isn’t any angst to chase the others away; they perform like impromptu dancers.

Next, the Eastern male towhee, Pipilo erythrophthalmus, alights the feeder after the brown thrasher returns to her branch to finish a gift of fat-rich suet. As the two birds enjoy their food, the bluebird feels free to dive in for his meal back on their respective limbs.

The dance goes on for a while; I remained still to watch the show. It gave me great hope for the new year. Alas, I also know that the turn of the calendar’s page, while widely celebrated to put our COVID-19 year behind us, still we face many challenges. 

My New Year’s wish for you is to be still. Listen, watch, and feed the birds. Smell the roses, grow a meadow. I feel very fortunate; I have my garden to bring me so much joy. I hope you and yours can find some comfort in what Nature brings YOU in the new year.

Until soon,

Helen

#WeCanAllBeeBetter

How-To Make a Terrarium

Leave your bellbottom jeans at the bottom of your closet and step away from the disco music playing on your hi-fi; it’s high time we bring back something good that was popular in the 70s. Making terrariums is hip again.

I’m teaching my kids how to make them and they are sharing their newfound knowledge with their friends. Groovy.

How-To Design a Garden Path

How-To Design a Garden Path

A journey down the garden path is poetic and practical. Now, while the winter garden sleeps, make planning your garden path a dream.

As winter opens the landscape, taking on a hardscape project – like building garden paths – is perfect timing.

Paths play an important role in the garden. More than a map through, paths fill a void in the garden, particularly in the winter, give sturdy passage, and invite you into the garden.

A Dog's Dinner

A DOG’S DINNER

You Can Only Shoehorn-in Holes in Your Garden so many times Before a Redesign is Needed, otherwise it looks like a dog’s dinner!

A Dog’s Dinner—a Term I learned from Rosemary Alexander, Founder of The English Gardening School.

A Dog’s Dinner—a Term I learned from Rosemary Alexander, Founder of The English Gardening School.



It’s been seven years since I did a redesign, so it was due. Given I started with this in 1998, there have been five redesigns. During this time, there were two constants—building the soil and gardening for wildlife. 

A Dog’s Dinner is a term I learned taking a course from Rosemary Alexander. I’ve never forgotten it, and now I have one!!! Ms. Alexander is referring to a garden that is just a hodge-podge that has lost its design.

The bed is part sun, part shade. I’m just on the edge of having enough sun to grow favorites here, such as coneflowers, Echinacea spp. More would thrive with more sun. In 2005, I build a covered porch, and that took the Mixed Border from full sun to only partial sun. 

This year’s redesign is brought to you by COVID-19! Something good had to come from this! Throughout the year, I had time since my work provided paid lockdowns. Given that I was being paid, I made sure I didn’t squander a single hour. I worked inside and out.  

I also had a second set of six days of lock due to a 24-hour bug. Yes, that’s right, everything has to be treated as COVID-19, so when I had a fever, headache, and tummy bug, I was sent home until I tested negative. My fever broke that evening, but still couldn’t return until I had a negative test. This takes a while. I returned for one day before the Holiday break where I took off until the new year. 

I managed to finish the redesign before my return to work, and now I’m at the Cottage on Emerald Isle for an entire week!

The day after Christmas as way departing day, but not before my son, Aster, gifted me a load of mulch and laid it for me! This was super special. And guess where it was laid? You got it in the new redesigned Mixed Border. 

A Christmas gift from my son, Aster. He also laid it from me in the newly redesigned Mixed Border!

The redesign took four days. To do it right, these things take time. I had it, so I used it. The weather also cooperated with temperatures in the 50s. Without this time off, and for the record, I wasn’t happy about it; I wanted to finish the year with a bang as Anna and I were working on a similar redesign of Mordecai! Thankfully I was able to attend the meeting at the Joslin Garden, where I will transition from the Historic Gardens to Joslin Garden in the new year! More on that later.

HERE IS WHAT I DID:

Existing 

Japanese maple, Acer palmatum ‘'Shishigashira’ 

Japanese Maple, Acer ??? From MrMaple need to find out name

Golden variegated sweet flag, Acorus gramineus ‘Ogon’

Gordo boxwoods, Buxus × ‘Conrowe’, Gordo™ 

Native canna, Canna glauca ‘Panache’

Coneflowers, Echinacea purpurea ‘Cheyenne Spirit’ + other cultivars

Grasses (3) add 2 or 4 more—need name

Heliotrope, Heliotropium amplexicaule

Lenten rose, Helleborus × hybridus 

Anise shrub, llicium × 'Woodland Ruby’

Bee Balm, Monarda didyma ‘Jacob Cline’ + other cultivars

Garden phlox, Phlox paniculata ‘Jeana’, ‘Shortwood’, ‘Laura’ and various others

Blue woodland phlox, Phlox divaricata

Pomegranate, Punica granatum

Flowering apricot, Prunus mume ‘Bridal Veil’

Cherry, Prunus avium ‘Stella’

Brown-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia triloba

Sacred lily, Rohdea japonica

Sage, Salvia leucantha

Sweetbox, Sarcococca confusa

Arborate fern, Selaginella braunii

Lamb’s Ear, Stachys officinalis ‘Hummelo’

Viburnum, Viburnum obovatum 'Raulston Hardy’

Snowball bush, Viburnum plicatum ‘Popcorn’


Corralled

Coneflowers, Echinacea purpurea, various others

Lenten rose, Helleborus × hybridus around the Prunus mume ‘Bridal Veil’

Phlox, Phlox paniculata ‘Jenna’ + other cultivars to go with ‘Sherwood’

Salvia, Salvia longispicata × farinacea ‘Mystic Spires Blue’

Brown-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia triloba


Added

Eastern Blue Star, Amsonia tabernaemontana ‘Blue Star’

Foxglove, Digitalis purpurea 

Joe-pye weed, Eutrochium purpureum from the front gardens

Icelandic poppies, Papaver nudicaule

Hollyhocks, Alcea rosea

Eradicated/Tamed

Sedum ?? Taking over!

Strawberries, Fragaria × ananassa moved to Food Forest out front

Salvia,  Salvia guaranitica

You’ll have to wait until June when the redesigned Mixed Border will strut her stuff. I promise, it will be worth the wait!

Until soon, Helen

#WeCanAllBeeBetter!

Coneflower, Echinacea purpurea ‘Cheyenne Spirit’

‘Cheyenne Spirit’ is my favorite coneflower; it might be because when so many of the new cultivars were introduced, that didn’t didn’t return for a second season. They became very expensive annuals! Those issues have been worked out, but while I was waiting for this to occurred, I found ‘Cheyenne Spirit’.

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Even though the perennial coneflower, ’Cheyenne Spirit tends to bloom the first year in a color mixture of white, cream, red, pink, orange, yellow, or purple ray flowers with brown disk flowers. 

Latin Name: Echinacea purpurea ‘Cheyenne Spirit’ 

Common Name: ‘Cheyenne Spirit’ coneflower

Type: Herbaceous perennial

Height: 1.00 to 2.50 feet

Spread: 1.00 to 2.00 feet

Bloom Time: June to October

Native Range: Eastern North America

Wildlife Benefits: 

Birds and butterflies, as well as, Bumble bees, Bombus spp, sweat bees, Halictidae spp, and various sunflower bees in the genera Diadasia, Melissodes, and Svastra. 

Specialists include the sunflower leafcutter bee, Megachile pugnata, and the mining bee, Andrena helianthiformis.

Many butterflies also visit for nectar, including monarchs, Danaus plexippus swallowtails, Papilionidae spp., and sulphurs, Coliadinae spp.

Purple coneflowers are also the host butterfly plant for the silvery checkerspot butterfly larvae, Chlosyne nycteis.

Culture Information:

Sun: Full sun to part shade

Water: Dry to medium

Hardiness Zone: 4 to 9

Groom/Prune: Plants usually re-bloom without deadheading. Cutbacks will stimulate further blooms, but will take away seeds for the birds.

Pest/disease Control: No serious insect or disease problems. Susceptible to aster yellows disease and eriophyid mites. 

Propagation: Can collect seed to spread around. 

Tolerates: Deer, drought, clay soil, dry soil, sand hallow-rocky soil

Comments:

‘Cheyenne Spirit’ is easily seed grown, and grown as such in the industry as opposed to cloning. 



Purple Coneflower, Echinacea purpurea


Why I grow Purple Coneflower: 

As you probably know, there are some fantastic new varieties of coneflowers out there. Some improved to enhance size and color, which I like; others are enhanced with double flowers. I don’t recommend double flowering plants of any kind for a wildlife habitat. Oh, the double flowers are very pretty, but did you know pollinators can’t access the nectar or pollen through densely packed petals, if there is any left at all? It’s always best to stick with single-flower species, and the straight species coneflower is one I never tire of. 

Kind: 

Latin Name: Echinacea purpurea

Common Name: Purple coneflower

Type: Herbaceous perennial

Height: 2.00 to 5.00 feet

Spread: 1.50 to 2.00 feet

Bloom Time: June to September

Native Range: Eastern North America


Wildlife Benefits: 

Birds and butterflies, as well as, Bumble bees, Bombus spp, sweat bees, Halictidae spp, and various sunflower bees in the genera Diadasia, Melissodes, and Svastra. 

Specialists include the sunflower leafcutter bee, Megachile pugnata, and the mining bee, Andrena helianthiformis.

Many butterflies also visit for nectar, including monarchs, Danaus plexippus swallowtails, Papilionidae spp., and sulphurs, Coliadinae spp.

Purple coneflowers are also the host butterfly plant for the silvery checkerspot butterfly larvae, Chlosyne nycteis.

Culture Information:

Sun: Full sun to part shade

Water: Dry to medium

Hardiness Zone: 3 to 8

Groom/Prune: Do both: deadhead a few to extend the bloom time and leave the seed heads for the Eastern goldfinch, Spinus tristis

Pest/disease Control: 

Japanese beetle and leaf spot are occasional problems. Susceptible to aster yellows disease.

Propagation: Can collect seed to spread around. Plant grow larger over time, but tend to spread unless reseeding, which is like getting free plants!

Tolerates: Deer, drought, clay soil, dry soil, shallow-rocky soil

Comments:

Coneflowers of an single-flowered variety will benefit your wildlife habitat,  feeding the birds, bees, and butterflies, and giving you perennial joy for many years to come. To me, seeing the Eastern goldfinch feeding on coneflower seeds is more beautiful than the flower itself! Helen Yoest







The Art of an Apple Espalier

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As I may have mentioned in past posts, I grow lots of different fruit trees.

The rewards of growing my own food goes beyond the bounty. It’s also about connecting with the soil, watching a seed sprout, and nurturing what will soon nurture me. And of course, there are the bragging rights of serving friends and family food grown fresh from the garden. If you are constrained by small space, try growing your fruit as an espalier.

Training fruit trees and vines to grow in two dimensions saves space and increases productivity. 

Espalier, pronounced ess-PAL-yay, is a French term meaning to train fruit trees to grow flat against a wall. The practice of espalier started because it was discovered that walls offered protection from late-season frosts. Today, we use this technique as a space saver, training plants along whatever open surface we find—any wall with an open expanse is fair game. It could be a retaining wall, the side of a brick or stone building, or even a flat, unsightly privacy fence!

There several common espalier templets; I focused on a classic shape, but there are forms, such as fans, grids, or weaves, candelabra, and tiered or French cross styles.

Prune once a year in late winter while the plant is dormant. The wires  used to train your tree against the wall are your plan or scheme to which to follow, and the branches that are following those lines should be pruned back to the trunk. Also, cut back branches that are growing toward you. Avoid pruning in late summer or early fall, since the new growth will be damaged by winter cold.

An espalier not only saves space but it also is easier to care for than a conventional tree and will produce more fruit.

Espalier an Apple Tree

MATERIALS

  • Apple tree whip

  • 12-to 14- gauge wire

  • 1/4 to 3/16’ eye bolts

  • Drill and bit to fit the eye bolt

  • Marker

  • Ruler

  • Wire clappers

  • Compost

  • Shovel

  • Nylon pantyhose strips

  1. FIND A SPOT Choose a flat wall location that receives at least six hours of sun per day.

  2. MEASURE TREE LINES The tree trunk is the vertical line. The branding is three horizontal tiers, at 16, 32, and 48” in height. For each tier, measure and mark to 3’ + 5” on either side of the center trunk.

  3. BUILD A WIRE SUPPORT Attach eyebolts at equal increments along the trunk line and also at the right- and left-hand sides of each vertical line. Thread wire through the eyebolts.

  4. PLANT THE TREE Dig a hole 12-14”deep and wide in front of the vertical wire, about 4” out from the wall. Mix native soil with compost to enrich the soil and promote good drainage.

  5. SECURE Using nylon hose strips, secure the tree trunk to the wire in a position below the bottom tier and at 1-2” above the top-tier wire.

  6. NOTCH On the trunk sides, at the 2” mark above each of the three horizontal wires, make a small nick in the truck to spur branching.